Tuesday, April 7, 2015

LEGENDS OF PERFUME

1. CHANEL NO. 5

Launched over 90 years ago, Chanel No.5 is the most iconic perfume of all time. The chemical formula for the fragrance was compounded by French chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux. Coco asked to created “a perfume with the scent of a woman”. And one of the proposed bottles number 5 became the timeless fragrance with hints of vanilla, may rose and jasmine. With Art Deco bottle, it was the first perfume to bear a designer's name.



Perfume was revolutionary, because previously, sexually provocative scents were associated with women of the demi-monde or courtesans. Women from high society preferred the pure essence of a single garden flower. But Coco has made own adjustments into fragrance fashion, liberty spirit of 20's were epitomized by these daring perfume.

Chanel No.5 advertising campaigns are always epic. Many famous and most beautiful faces have represented Chanel No.5 over years.

Suzy Parker, Advertising campaign in 1957, Photographed by Richard Avedon 

Catherine Deneuve, Advertising campaign in 1972, Photographed by Richard Avedon   

Carole Bouquet, Advertising campaign in 1996, Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier

Estella Warren, Advertising campaign in 1999, Photographed by Jean-Paul Goude 
Nicole Kidman, Advertising campaign in 2005, Photographed by Baz Luhrmann
Audrey Tatou,  Advertising campaign in 2009, Photographed by Dominique Issermann

Brad Pitt,  Advertising campaign in 2012
2. SHALIMAR BY GUERLAIN

Created in 1925 by Jacques Guerlain, Shalimar is another classic fragrance. It is an intoxicating, yet subtly sensuous blend that has endured for decades. Romantic with notes of iris, jasmine, rose and vanilla this perfume is said to have been inspired by the epic story of an Emperor who first met his truelove in the Gardens of Shalimar. 

'' More than 300 years ago, Shah Jahan succeeded to the throne of his father, Jahangir, and became the third Mogul Emperor of India.

Jahan loved only one woman. Her name was Mumtaz Mahal.

Some say he loved her unto madness, that she was not his wife but his fever. Victories, empires and riches were dust as compared to her… in his eyes, she alone was the balm that made life bearable.

When she died, Jahan’s hair turned white. He would burst into tears at the mention of her name. In her memory, he built one of the world’s greatest wonders–the Taj Mahal at Agra.

But the Taj Mahal is only an empty monument. While Mumtaz was alive, Jahan created a series of gardens for her at Lahore, gardens the like of which had never been seen before. He called them the gardens of Shalimar, the Sanskrit word meaning “abode of love.”

From every corner of the Earth, the most fragrant and delicate blossoms were brought. Deep pools were built with crystal fountains and terraces paved in marble. The rarest birds were summoned to sing here and lanterns were hung to rival the stars. In the gardens of Shalimar the lovers were truly happy, and Mumtaz bore fourteen children to her beloved Jahan.''

Jacques Guerlain decided that the perfume should be called Shalimar, not Taj Mahal, because, you see, Taj Mahal marks the end of the story, and this love story can never end….




Natalia Vodianova for La Legende de Shalimar by Guerlain

3. POISON BY CHRISTIAN DIOR

Warm and spicy, Poison was designed with coriander and tuberose - an unparalleled scent in the market. Launched in 1985, this deliciously extravagant perfume was defined by the indulgence of the era in which it was created.

Forbidden fruit from the house of Dior, Poison, has an unrivalled alchemy; spicy, fruity, woody fragrance of enigmatic profoundness that mesmerizes the senses... Top notes include coriander, wildberries, orange honey, tuberose are at perfume’s heart. This dark, mysterious and elegant perfume, which won a FiFi award in 1987, was created by Edouard Flechier. In 2006, the house of Dior released the Poison Amulets. These are limited edition 15 ml purse sprays available in Poison, Pure Poison, Tendre Poison and Hypnotic Poison; each comes with 2 refills and is packaged in a satin pouch with funnel. The bottles are very elegant while following the style and colors of the originals.

Posion Me by Lorena Balea-Raitz - Woman with Flower Crown wearing Poison Dior Perfume Bottle on the head with Poison Frog on the shoulder. Inspired by the Story the princess and the frog.
Dior Hypnotic Poison Eau Secrète
Hypnotic Poison Dior - Melanie Laurent
Midnight blue poison, Christian Dior, with Eva Green

4. L’AIR DU TEMPS BY NINA RICCI

This feminine, refined fragrance from Nina Ricci made its’ market debut in 1948 and is still wildly popular. When the world wanted a breath of fresh air after the ravaged years of the war.Women who has worked in ammunitions and related wartime factories wanted to regain their femininity and were seeking to bring back romance into their lives. Their answer was to come in the form of precious perfume. L'Air du Temps, literally means "The Air of the Times" in French. In keeping with the theme, the stopper of the bottle featured doves, a universal symbol of peace and love. L'Air du Temps was created by perfumer Francis Fabron.

A blend of gardenia, musk, rose and sandalwood in this perfume is said to be one of the purest scents ever made. Femininity, elegance, tenderness - all this remained there to this day. A chic fragrance that bursts forth with a fresh, youthful charm. L'Air du Temps contains a breath of time, hope for change, passionate love and a great desire to live and enjoy every day. It is the epitome of purity, peace, love and freedom. 



L'Air Du Temps by Nina Ricci, 2003
L'Air Du Temps by Nina Ricci, 2005
Audrey Marnay by Jean Baptiste Mondino / Nina Ricci L'air du Temps 1998 
L'Air du Temps by Olivia Putman

5. OPIUM BY YVES SAINT LAURENT

From it’s debut in 1977 this rich, evocative perfume has remained one of the world’s most successful fragrances. Yves Saint Laurent likened the sensual scent to the act of falling in love - a tribute that remains accurate to this day. Opium was created by Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac. YSL gave the fragrance the name Opium to signify seduction, passionate love, and to give the brand an exotic appeal. While the title caused international uproar–Australia banned it, the Middle East prohibited even the use of its name, and a group of Chinese Americans began a committee, the American Coalition Against Opium and Drug Abuse, to fight its release—the controversy actually spurred the perfume’s sales and popularity.

Opium, a mythical fragrance, for those who devote themselves to Yves Saint Laurent. A unique combination of oriental and spicy notes, leaving a sensual and disconcerting trail. A luxurious fragrance of sheer sensuality with a voluptuous, provocative and bewitching scent. An oriental spicy harmony that will turn heads wherever you go. The heart of the fragrance opens with mandarin, bergamot and lily of the valley, before revealing middle notes of jasmine, carnation and myrrh. Then the deeper aromas of vanilla, amber, sweet myrrh and patchouli melt on your skin - leaving a trail that arouses desire.




Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, ad with Kate Moss
Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, starring Emily Blunt
Sophie Dahl for Yves Saint-Laurent’s Opium. The ad, art directed by Tom Ford was a photo of Dahl with cherry red hair posing nude on black satin. It was removed from UK billboards after complaints were made to the Advertising Standards Authority.

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